Tongariro Alpine Crossing

One of the most beautiful and challenging tracks in New Zealand is Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Two weeks ago, we decide to give it a try. 🙂 It was one of the most challenging things I have done from a physical and mental point of view, but it was well worth it. Although it is hard work and the body is under serious stress, the views are absolutely amazing. Also getting to the end of it, is a wonderful rewarding experience, that I would recommend to anyone that loves the mountains.

The crossing is for those with above medium level of fitness, otherwise it is quite a struggle. For myself, it was pretty close to the end of my physical abilities and I would say that if you have any doubts about your level of fitness don’t try it. The track is 19.4 km longs and takes on average 8h to complete, depending from which direction you start. The recommended way to do the track is from Mangatepopo Car Park to Ketetahi Car Park. Nothing stops you from doing it from the other direction, but in this case allow for extra 2h to complete it. From an altitude perspective you start at around 1000m, climb to 1900m at the highest point and then descend to 800m.

What we had with us:

• A windproof jacket, fleece and hat, long pants for low temperatures
• 2.5l of water
• Food (chocolate and sandwiches)
• Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
• Cellphone

The track is divided into several sections, quite different between them:

• Mangatepopo Car Park to Soda Springs – We considered this section quite easy. There were so many people around us, that we never felt alone on the track :). Most of the times it was a long row of people laughing, walking in the same rhythm and enjoying the views. We had some really spectacular views of Mount Ngauruhoe (the famous Mount Doom from “The Lord of the Rings”) and a lava valley where a small stream accompanies the travellers. The end of the first section is marked by a set of public toilets facility.
• Soda Springs to South Crater – This section of the track was quite challenging as it is a long road of steps called The Devil’s Staircase. Many, many, many, never ending steps. My physical abilities were well challenged at this stage, but after an hour I managed to overcome it. The views were incredible, and thankfully we had a really sunny day, that allowed clear views of Mount Taranaki.
• South Crater to Red Crater – This section started very promising with a good section of flat terrain, but ended with a most demanding ascension. I found this part of the track the most difficult, as it was quite exposed and slippery. But the end of it was a rewarding view of Red Crater and down the Emerald Lakes. At the end of this section we had our second big break, where we had something to eat. A well deserved stop to recover a little bit of strength…
• Red Crater to Blue Lake – We descended from the Red Crater towards the Emerald Lakes quite fast and often using our hands and bum. 🙂 The small scoria was a trickery surface, that made us slip most of the times. At the end of the descend, our shoes were full of dust and stones… not a very pleasant feeling. But the Emerald Lakes were so beautiful, that we completely forgot about pain and dust and falls.
• Blue Lake to Ketetahi Hut – Starting from here onwards we experienced a steady descend. We were rewarded again with spectacular views over Mount Pihanga and Lake Rotoaira across to Lake Taupo.
• Ketetahi Hut to Ketetahi Car Park – The last part was a continuous pain :). Already quite tired, with feet hurting, I was constantly asking myself how much till the end… Still this part offered different views, very similar to the ones we experienced in Auckland in Waitakere Ranges. We have also crossed Mangatetipua Stream, which during volcanic eruptions can transform in a dangerous lahar.

And this was the end of the track. Tired and barely moving I got to the end of it. Felt a huge relief and I was really proud of myself that I took the challenge and pushed my physical limits to do this track. Anyone who loves the mountains and is up to a good challenge, don’t hesitate to try it. And who knows… you might like it so much that you will return the next year as well ;)…